So, we were motoring west on the Pennsylvania Turnpike... Not liking the exorbitant tolls, but surely appreciating how much nicer it is to ride across southern PA rather than northern... I glanced at the map and said to Steve: "You'll never guess what's right over there." I pointed north. "Shanksville."
That's how it starts for us Critchlows... A little pink dot on the map. This one said, "Flight 93 National Memorial Site." Pretty close to the turnpike, as the crow flies, but about 20 miles over back roads to get there.
So, we asked the toll attendant when we got off the 'pike, and I guess we weren't the first, because he handed us a pre-printed pamphlet with directions. And off we went, not knowing what to expect.
Well, heading over a rise, you see some of the most breathtaking scenery southern Pennsylvania has to offer. Miles of rolling hills in every direction. And a little shack. And a row of porta-potties. And a gravel parking area, filled with cars and lots of motorcycles.
And memorials... Some makeshift, some more formal. Granite markers. A towering wooden cross. Little wooden angels, all in a row, representing each of the passengers and crew. And, on a chain-link and wooden fence, dozens and hundreds of flags, caps, toys, coins, hair ties... You name it. Whatever's in people's pockets, they feel compelled to leave behind, in tribute.


And it's a real national park now, so there's a real ranger there. She gave a talk about Sept. 11 in general, and Flight 93 in particular, which is gut-wrenching to hear. It affected all of us, especially Emilyn, who was struck by the horror of the passengers' last moments. Allen, of course, didn't understand why all this cool stuff was just lying around,
and he couldn't touch any of it! 

We left behind a few things of our own... Emilyn had made a red, white and blue bracelet, and she tied it to the fence... Someone had left a Springfield Cardinals baseball cap, so we attached one of Grammy's piggy pins to it. She would have liked that, I think.
So, yeah, now it's just a shack, some benches and a few porta-potties. But the permanent memorial they have planned sounds absolutely beautiful. You will have to walk quite a distance to get to the site, following the final flight path of the plane, and there will be a tall tower with wind chimes, one for each of the passengers and crew. The chimes are meant to represent their voices. The crash site is their final resting place... The county coroner felt very strongly that the crater should just be filled in and marked forever as a mass grave. We will definitely go back when the permanent memorial is complete... And, hey, I think all of you should, too!
Well, that was enough angst for one day... I turned to my family and said, "Let's go enjoy some good ol' American freedom." And what says that better than driving hundreds of miles to... and indoor water park!
Next stop,
Fort Rapids resort in Columbus, Ohio. Daddy had stayed here for an air show a few years ago, and he thought it would be a good treat and a nice stop on the way home.


I'll say! Just look at that place! Daddy even braved the giant water slides that wind their way
outside the building and then back in. No thanks, Mommy said! Emilyn and Daddy stood under the giant bucket, which warns you it's going to tip by sounding a giant, water-powered bell. Emilyn and Allen got to sleep in rustic little bunk beds right in the room.
In all, a busy, grueling, moving, fun day. For all the pictures from Shanksville and Fort Rapids, click
here.